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Crochet Elf Pattern

This sweet little elf was designed to sit on a shelf. He is 7 inches from bottom to head, but close to 15 counting the legs. With his cute little hat and scarf he is ready for the cold winters at the North Pole, but he would love to come into your home and celebrate the Holidays, too!

As a fun Christmas Special, this premium pattern is available on the blog for a limited time! For three weeks you can find it in it’s entirety here, but on Dec. 12 at midnight, it will be taken down! If you would like it for longer than that, take advantage of the bundle that includes the Reindeer and Moose in this Christmas Collection! Or you can get just the elf pattern on sale. (No coupon required! Regular price will return on December 13!) 

You can also find the Christmas Amigurumi Bundle on Ravelry, or the individual Elf pattern for the same prices.

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Please note this pattern is only for PERSONAL USE. Please feel free to make as many
items as you wish for yourself, or as gifts. You may sell items made with this pattern but
PLEASE LINK BACK OR GIVE CREDIT TO ME AS DESIGNER. In no way can you
share, reproduce, or sell this pattern. Please respect my rights as designer.
Read through the entire pattern and the amigurumi tips and tricks before you begin.

You will need:

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About 50g each of Size 4 Worsted weight yarn in skin color, sweater color, stripe colors
(I used Hobby Lobby’s I love this yarn for the project in colors ivory, key lime, red, white,and black)
12mm safety eyes
Embroidery thread for eyebrows
Stuffing
E hook (3.25)
H hook (5.0)
Needle for sewing
Stitch marker
¾ cup Poly pellets (these are used to weigh down the body so it can sit on the shelf)

The poly pellets are optional, but the do provide a lot of stability. I poured mine into mismatched socks and tied it up, like a bean bag. You can also use a sandwich bag or if you feel like your stitches are tight enough, just pour them into the body. I was more worried about my boys playing rough with them and the pellets working out, so I used the sock.

Say No to Wobbly Heads!
For this pattern, the legs, body and head are all one piece. That helps with the wobble, but there are few extra steps that make a big difference. First, make sure you are stuffing really well. You always need more than you think. Keep in mind that it will “deflate” for lack of a better term, over time. Make sure the body is packed, the neck is stuffed VERY well, and the head is too. On the other hand, if you over stuff the stitches will stretch and you can see the stuffing. Obviously stop before you get to that point.
You can also add something to the neck. My newest and most favorite way is to use a foam hair roller. Yes, the kind that is used to curl hair! I get 6 for $1 at the Dollar Tree. They are the smaller, skinnier kind.Just stick them through the neck and stuff as well as you can around it. I needed to bend mine over because it was a little too big but it was no problem! This is by far the sturdiest I have ever seen my doll heads.
You can also crochet a tube. For this doll, because the neck is 12 stitches around, SC 11 in a magic circle. SC around until you reach about 20 rows (stuffing as you go) and then decrease and sew it shut. You will want to make sure that it is very firmly packed. Stuff it down the neck. Fill around with stuffing as well. (see I told you stuffing was important!)

Abbreviations
SC- single crochet

SC INC- single crochet increase (2 SC in each stitch)

INV DEC- Invisible decrease (put hook through the FRONT LOOP ONLY of two consecutive stitches [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through both loops. [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through two loops)

Magic Circle- Make a loop, leaving a long tail to work with. Insert hook in center of loop, yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over, pull through to make the first chain (this does not count as a stitch!). Continue to crochet over the loop and tail with the number of stitches called for. (If you need 6 SC, then crochet 6 SC inside the ring.) Pull the tail to close the circle.

Always move your stitch marker to the last stitch in the round. This pattern is worked in continuous rounds.

Everything but the scarf uses the E hook.
Legs
The first color you use in the stripes will be the color of the bottom when you make the body. So the white was the same color as the bottom for the reindeer.
Using Black:
Round 1: 6 SC in a magic circle.
Round 2: INC in each around. (12)
Round 3: SC in the first, SC INC in the next. (18)
Round 4: SC in the first 2, SC INC in the next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 5: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 6: SC in first 4, SC INC in the next. Repeat around. (36)
Rounds 7-11: SC in each around. (36)
Round 12: INV DEC 12 times. SC in the remaining 12 stitches. (24)
Round 13: INV DEC 6 times. SC in the remaining 12. (18)
Rounds 14-17: SC in each around. (18)
Change color to the color you want the bottom to be on your amigurumi. For the rest of the leg, change colors every 5 rows.
Rounds 18-52: SC in each around. (18)
Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto the body. You will attach the legs to row 10 of the body.
Make the boots edge by attaching the black yarn to the first row where you change color, with the legs facing up and the boots down so that your stitches will be facing up.Go around the stitch, like you were making a post stitch. Chain 2. HDC in each around, slip stitching to the first when you meet it. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Arms
*I only stuff the very bottom and very lightly. Then not at all through the top half.*
Using tan color:
Round 1: SC 6 in a magic ring.
Round 2: SC INC in each around. (12)
Round 3: SC in first, SC INC in the next. Repeat around. (18)
Rounds 4-8: SC in each around. (18)
Change to sweater color.
Rounds 9-25: SC in each around.(18)
Round 26: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat in next.
Fasten off and leave a tail long enough to sew on. Attach the arms between rows 28 and 29 on the body.
Make the sweater edge by attaching the same color of yarn to the first row where you change color, with the hands facing up so that your stitches will be facing down (like the cuffs of your sweater would.) Go around the stitch, like you were making a post stitch. Chain 2. HDC in each around, slip stitching to the first when you meet it. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Body
Using the color of the top strip of your legs:
Round 1: In a magic circle, 6 SC.
Round 2: SC INC in each around. (12)
Round 3: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 4: SC in first 2, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 5: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 6: SC in first 4, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 7: SC in first 5, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 8: SC in first 6, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 9: SC in first 7, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (54)
Round 10: SC in first 8, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (60)
Rounds 11-12: SC in each around. (60)
Change to sweater color.
Rounds 13-19: SC in each around. (60)
Round 20: SC in the first 8, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (54)
Rounds 21: SC in each around. (54)
Round 22: SC in the first 7, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 23: SC in each around. (48)
Round 24: SC in the first 6, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 25: SC in each around. (42)
Round 26: SC in the first 5, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 27: SC in each around. (36)
Round 28: SC in the first 4, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 29: SC in the first 3, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 30: SC in the first 2, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 31: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (12)
Rounds 32: SC in each around (12)
Change to skin color.
Round 33: SC in each around. (12)
From here we will be increasing the head. From this point I am resetting the number on the rounds. Round 34 of the body is now Round 1 of the head. It will be easy to see.

Head
Round 1: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 2: SC in first 2, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 3: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 4: SC in first 4, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 5: SC in first 5, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 6: SC in first 6, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 7: SC in first 7, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (54)
Round 8-20: SC in each stitch around. (54)
Place the safety eyes in between rows 13 and 14, ten stitches apart. Sew on eyebrows. This is also a good time to place the foam roller or dowel if you are using one. Make sure to stuff the neck around the dowel as well as you can. I also like to stretch the bottom of the head a little. It makes it more round from the point of the neck.
Round 21: SC in the first 7, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 22: SC in the first 6, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 23: SC in the first 5, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 24: SC in the first 4, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 25: SC in the first 3, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 26: SC in the first 2, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 27: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (12)
Round 28: INV DEC around. (6)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sweater Edge
Make the sweater edge by attaching the same color of yarn to the first row where you change color, with the bottom facing up so that your stitches will be facing down (like the edge of your sweater would.) Go around the stitch, like you were making a post stitch. Chain 2. DC in each around, slip stitching to the first when you meet it. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Scarf
Using H hook:
Chain 70. Two stitches from the end DC. DC in each stitch to the end (68)
Chain 2 and DC in the same stitch. DC in each stitch to the end. (68)
Fasten off. Attach fringe.

Hat
(Use the smaller hook and green yarn.)
At the end of each round you will chain 2. It does not count as a stitch. Fasten to the first stitch with a slip stitch at the end of each row.
With Green:
Round 1: In a magic circle crochet 10 DC.
Round 2: DC in each around. (10)
Round 3: DC in the first, INC in the next. Repeat around. (15)
Round 4: DC in each around. (15)
Round 5: DC in the first 2, INC in the next. Repeat around. (20)
Round 6: DC in each around. (20)
Round 7: DC in the first 3, INC in the next. Repeat around. (25)
Round 8: DC in each around. (25)
Round 9: DC in the first 4, INC in the next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 10: DC in the first 5, INC in the next. Repeat around. (35)
Round 11: DC in the first 6, INC in the next. Repeat around. (40)
Round 12: DC in the first 7, INC in the next. Repeat around. (45)
Round 13: DC in the first 8, INC in the next. Repeat around. (50)
Rounds 14-19: DC in each around.
Change to red.
Round 20: DC in each around. (50)
Round 21-22: Front post double crochet (FPDC) around the first stitch. Back post double crochet(BPDC) in the next. Alternate to the end of the row.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Attach a fluffy pom pom to the top.