I am so excited to introduce to you, The Friendly Molly Crochet doll! At just over 9 inches, the Friendly Molly is the perfect size for little hands to cuddle. The body and head is made in one piece and I share some tips to minimize that dreaded "head wobble." Perfectly sweet with darling little pigtails and her little overalls, Molly would be a darling present for any little girl! I designed her with young ones in mind, so everything is attached, the hair is crocheted so it won't unravel, and extra cute for lots of play and snuggles.
Don't worry if you have any questions or concerns... Join the Friendly Crochet Club on facebook and please ask! I will be checking in often to address them!
Follow me on instagram as I share my progress there as well! Use hashtags? Be sure to use #thefriendlymollyCAL so we can see yours!
You will need:
Size 3.5 E hook (you can use up to a 4.0 hook if you need to. Just know that small, tight stitches generally makes for better amigurumi!)
Approx 100 g size 4 worsted yarn in skin color
*I recommend Hobby Lobby's I Love this Yarn in Ivory for the skin color. For more of my favorite options please read this article on Favorite Yarn for Crochet Dolls.
Approx 50g in size 4 worsted yarn in pink (or your preferred color)
Small amount of white size 4 worsted yarn.
Approx 50g of hair color yarn
Crochet Hook in Size 4.0 or 3.75
Polyfil (I HIGHLY recommend this brand for amigurumi)
10.5mm safety eyes (you get what you pay for with safety eyes. I recommend staying away from the bulk batches)
black embroidery thread for eye lashes
Foam roller (optional- see this post on preventing head wobble for more information.)
You can personalize Molly with whatever skin color, hair color, and outfit color you would like! I love that you can make a few changes and get such a different doll!
You do have some homework before we begin... Be sure to read my Best Tips and Tricks for Amigurumi! Start off on the right foot, with all the stuff I wish I knew before my first amigurumi project!
Abbreviations and Tips&Tricks
(Please note that gauge is not overly important here. Unless you have wide gaps in your fabric of single crochet, then go down a hook size until you achieve tight stitches.)
*Written in US Crochet Terms*
SC- single crochet
SC INC- single crochet increase (2 SC in each stitch)
INV DEC- Invisible decrease (put hook through the FRONT LOOP ONLY of two consecutive stitches [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through both loops. [two loops on hook] Yarn over pull through two loops)
Magic Circle- Make a loop, leaving a long tail to work with. Insert hook in center of loop, yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over, pull through to make the first chain (this does not count as a stitch!). Continue to crochet over the loop and tail with the number of stitches called for. (If you need 6 SC, then crochet 6 SC inside the ring.) Pull the tail to close the circle.
Say No to Wobbly Heads!
For this pattern, the legs, body and head are all one piece. That helps with the wobble, but there are few extra steps that make a big difference. First, make sure you are stuffing really well. You always need more than you think. Keep in mind that it will “deflate” for lack of a better term, over time. Make sure the body is packed, the neck is stuffed VERY well, and the head is too. On the other hand, if you over stuff the stitches will stretch and you can see the stuffing. Obviously stop before you get to that point.
You can also add something to the neck. My newest and most favorite way is to use a foam hair roller. Yes, the kind that is used to curl hair! I get 6 for $1 at the Dollar Tree. They are the smaller, skinnier kind.Just stick them through the neck and stuff as well as you can around it. I needed to bend mine over because it was a little too big but it was no problem! This is by far the sturdiest I have ever seen my doll heads.
You can also crochet a tube. For this doll, because the neck is 12 stitches around, SC 11 in a magic circle. SC around until you reach about 20 rows (stuffing as you go) and then decrease and sew it shut. You will want to make sure that it is very firmly packed. Stuff it down the neck. Fill around with stuffing as well. (see I told you stuffing was important!)
Always move your stitch marker to the last stitch in the round. This pattern is worked in continuous rounds. Stuff as you go.
Before you begin, please watch this video on how to change colors. It makes a big difference as you change colors often in this part!
Legs and Body
Round 1: In a magic circle, SC 6
Round 2: SC INC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 4-12: SC in each stitch around. (18)
Change to overall color.
Rounds 13-18: SC in each stitch around. (18)
Repeat for the second leg but do not fasten off. Instead, chain 3 and then SC in the next stitch of the other leg. Take care to crochet over the tail left over by fastening off. SC around the entire leg. When you come to the three chains, SC in each chain around the next leg. SC over the chain back to the other leg. In the last SC on the last chain place your stitch marker. (This is round 19.)
Please watch this video on how to attach the legs!
Round 20: SC around. (42)
Rounds 21-33: SC around (42)
Change to t-shirt color.
Round 34: In back loop only, SC in each around. (42)
Round 35: 4 SC, INV DEC, repeat around. (35)
Round 36: 3 SC, INV DEC, repeat around. (28)
Change to skin color.
Round 37: 2 SC, INV DEC, repeat around.(21)
Round 38: 1 SC, INV DEC, repeat around. (14)
INV DEC until you have 12 stitches on the round
Round 39: SC in each stitch around. (12)
Round 1: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 2: SC in first 2, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 3: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 4: SC in first 4, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 5: SC in first 5, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 6: SC in first 6, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 7: SC in first 7, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (54)
Round 8-20: SC in each stitch around. (54)
Place the safety eyes in between rows 13 and 14, nine stitches apart. Sew on eyelashes here. This is also a good time to place the foam roller or dowel if you are using one. Make sure to stuff the neck around the dowel as well as you can.
Round 21: SC in the first 7, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 22: SC in the first 6, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 23: SC in the first 5, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 24: SC in the first 4, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 25: SC in the first 3, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 26: SC in the first 2, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 27: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (12)
Round 28: INV DEC around. (6)
*I do not stuff my arms. If you choose to do so, I recommend only stuffing the bottom*
If you need a refresher on how to change colors in amigurumi please watch this video.
Round 1: In a magic circle, SC 10. (10)
Rounds 2-14: SC in each stitch around (10)
Change to white.
Rounds 15-20: SC in each stitch around. (10)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. I sew them on between rows 36 and 37.
Chain to 16. Turn and HDC in each across (15) Fasten off and sew over the shoulders of the doll. I use one end to sew on the back where the line of the overalls meets the shirt. Then with the other end I go THROUGH the doll and stitch the end on the front over the line where the shirt meets the overalls. Go back through the doll and weave in the ends in the back.
Round 1: In a magic circle, 6 SC.
Round 2: SC INC in each around. (12)
Round 3: SC in first, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 4: SC in first 2, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 5: SC in first 3, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (30)
Round 6: SC in first 4, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (36)
Round 7: SC in first 5, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (42)
Round 8: SC in first 6, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (48)
Round 9: SC in first 7, SC INC in next. Repeat around. (54)
Round 10-16: SC in each stitch around. (54)
*If you feel like the hair is not yet long enough (some yarns will not crochet up the same as others, even if they are the same weight) add a couple extra rows here.*
Round 17: Chain 1. Skip one stitch. DC INC in the first stitch. DC in the next. DC INC in the next. Skip one stitch and slip stitch in the next. Repeat around. Slip stitch to the first stitch and fasten off. Leave a long tail to sew onto the head.
To make the pig tail hair, chain 20. Slip stitch in each stitch back up the chain. Fasten off and leave a tail to sew on to the hair hat. I made 14 and divided them, 7 in each pigtail. I just sew both ends (the tail made from the chain and the tail left from fastening off) on the hat, with one or two passes through the top of the piece. I tie them underneath the hat. The knots will be hidden when placed on the head. Sew right around and slightly above the center circle.
Then sew the hair hat on the head. I like to use pins to keep it where I want it as I sew.
If you liked this pattern, be sure to check out all of my free patterns here to find your next project!
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